Wild One Tours

DAY 1: After leaving the morning drizzle in Lincolnshire it became brighter and drier as we headed South. As we waited to board the boat at Dover it was positively warm and sunny. A couple in a 1928 4.5 litre Bentley were attracting a lot of attention. So too was a long line of Hyundai cars on some sort of World Cup promotion. We enjoyed a picnic on the open deck while the boat took us to Dunkirk. After an uneventful ride to Lille we were soon settled into our hotels and dining in the restaurant next door. An after dinner stroll revealed that there were many other restaurants within walking distance. These included a brasserie/ pub with a good selection of beers. There is also a nightclub next to the hotel. It appeared to be ladies night and I would have gone in to strut my stuff, but it seems that biker boots are not acceptable wear for the establishment dress code. 

Day 2: After an hours ride we were stopping at the WW1 battlefield site at Vimy Ridge and after a good look around the Canadian National War Monument, trenches and visitor centre, we were back on the road. On our scheduled lunch stop we absorbed more sunshine while dining in the open air, but what a difference an hour would make. Before we had got to the interesting twisty bits of the ride, it had clouded over and the heavens opened. Pulling over to don waterproofs, Roger put his side stand down on some soft ground and his bike fell over. Many hands make light work of lifting and there was no damage. Soon we were taking shelter in a McDonalds until the worst of the downpour had passed. The ride became brighter and dry enough to ride at a decent pace on the remaining twisties as we approached the hotel in Verdun. 

DAY 3: Apart from the odd shower it kept dry for most of the day and there was no need to don waterproofs. By this blessing we had good views of the fabulous scenery and dry surfaces for a sporty ride on the twisting roads. We were at the hotel in Lons Le Saunier in good time to offload the luggage and ride out to marvel at the highly rated Cirque de Baume. On the way back to the hotel we rode into the centre of Lons le Saunier for a look around this interesting spa town and dinner. The TV news that night was dominated by reports of a catastrophic flood affecting Roquebrune sur Argens where we had three nights of hotel bookings. A check of email confirmed that they were flooded and would not be open when we got there. I made alternative bookings for similar hotels near Antibes which is on the coast a respectable distance away the from the disaster zone.  

DAY 4: Lakes, rivers, waterfalls, bridges, forests, hills, mountains and spectacular traffic free roads. The morning ride had everything. The forecast rain held off until we had crossed the Jura mountains and stopped for lunch near the Swiss border. Then it was cats and dogs! We battled our way through heavy traffic and persistant rain for a visit to the Jet D'Eau, only to find that it was not in operation and that all of the lakeside cafes were now closed for the remainder of the day. Rather than dwell on our misfortune, we got moving again and were soon glad to be back on the relatively low traffic volume roads of France. The rain abruptly stopped as we made our next scheduled stop at the Ponts de la Caille which cross a spectacular gorge. We even had a little sunshine as we rode on along the shores of lake Annecy. This did not last for long though and we got to our hotel in Albertville just in time to miss the brunt of a heavy shower. In a nearby restaurant we met stranded brit biker, Stuart who had become separated from his tour group on the far away Stelvio pass and had since abandoned his Ducati bike which had broken down a few miles away. For all that he was taking things in his stride, Stuart was no doubt glad to meet some friendly faces with whom he could discuss his situation. 

DAY 5: A night of heavy rain with thunder, lightning and still grey skies in the morning did not inspire enthusiasm for the days ride. We were to cross the highest mountain pass in Europe and others which were not a lot less high and equally challenging. After breakfast we called to collect Stuart from his hotel. I gave him a lift to his bike and we left him there to arrange repair or recovery. The ride up the 1968M Cormet de Roseland gave an early indication of just how challenging the days riding was going to be. Post winter road repairs had started late this year. The storms had caused rocks, mud and tree branches to fall onto the road. We climbed into a band of low cloud from which farmers were herding their cattle along the road towards the brighter, dryer, higher altitude. At a cafe near the summit, we were forewarned that the highest pass (Col de l'Iseran @ 2770M - 9,088ft) was probably still closed due to avalanches. Road signs on the approach confirmed this. Plan B was a detour to the 2000M Col de la Madeleine. In places this is little more than a single track road. As we climbed through low cloud the rain set in again. The road was wet and strewn with fallen debris. The climb in these conditions was one of the most difficult rides of my life, but having passed without incident has become an event to proudly boast about. Yet more was in store. After lunch, the 2645M Col Du Galibier was closed above the 2556M tunnel which was the highest we were going to get today. At this altitude the light rain had turned into snow which was adding to that already banked up at the sides of the road. Stopping for a coffee in Europes highest town (Briançon @ 4,334ft) we decided to stay under the low cloud and missing out the Col D'Izoard we rode the fast all weather road to our hotel in Gap. When we got there the clouds were giving way to blue sky and sunshine.  

DAY 6: We set off on a bright summer morning for the highest sealed surface road in Europe (the Cime de la Bonette) and on dry roads we were setting a smooth fast pace on the hairpin climb to 2802M or in old money 9,193ft. Or so we thought! First we were overtaken by a stream of about six German registered bikes piloted by types who certainly knew how to ride. When we got to the top of the Col de la Bonette 2715M (8,907ft) we found that the Cime (summit) road was not yet cleared of snow and was closed to all but pedestrians. We did ride a little way onto it to join dozens of other bikes which had squeezed past the barrier to use the lower cleared part for parking. The views from what was to be the highest altitude of the trip were spectacular and the day was too good to feel the slightest disappointment about the road closure. We had a faster ride downhill and at one point were treated to a cooling shower from a powerful waterfall cascading close to the road. Lunch was purchased from a sandwich shop and taken in the attractive town square at St Etienne. The day grew hotter on the twisting mountain roads to Nice. Thankfully the hotels at Sophia Antipolis near Antibes had effective air-conditioning and an on-site restaurant. After dinner I went for a solo ride to get my bearings and to paddle in the warm waters of the Med. 

DAY 7: Most of the well known brand perfumes are made from locally grown produce in the town of Grasse. Here we visited the Fragonard Parfumerie. They offer free tours in which the perfume making process is demonstrated and explained by an English speaking guide. Erin picked up some great bargains in the factory shop. I had stayed outside guarding the bikes and gear for the duration. Cooked medium to well done I was now looking forward to a dip in cooling water. Leaving Grasse on twisting back roads through the hills, our next stop was the beaches of the Lac de St Cassien. Erin and Roger opted to move on from here so I guided them to the sandy coast beach at Frejus. We didn't stay there for long either. After  a brief walk around the adjoining yachting port we were back on the bikes bound for the secluded coves on the spectacular Corniche D'Or coastal road. I finally got to swim for the best part of an hour from a deserted rocky beach, while my companions stayed at the roadside to chat with a family from Scunthorpe who had tales to tell of the recent flood catastrophe in the nearby Var region. We rode into peak traffic at Cannes which slowed our return to the hotels. The effects of travel in relentless heat began to tell on us over the last few miles and I determined that we needed to rest up tomorrow before the return leg of our tour.  

DAY 8: When the bus from the hotels to the beach at Antibes failed to show, we jumped on the bikes for the short ride to the coast at Juan-les-Pins and then followed this to the first available beach front bike parking at trendy Golfe-Juan. We passed a couple of hours mingling with the ultra wealthy in the posh cafes and boutiques before pitching a plot on a quiet little public beach. Here I had the good fortune to encounter a perfectly formed topless local beauty who happened to be a bit of a flirt and of a respectable age so as not to make me feel like a dirty old man when chatting to her. Happily married I am, but it still feels good to be given the impression that you are found attractive by shapely strangers. A resident of Cannes, she explained her move down the coast for better sunbathing weather on account of forecast rain showers there. A few clouds blew over our beach and as she got up to leave I jokingly asked was she moving down the coast to Nice for more sunshine. "To Italy" she replied, before walking away wriggling her bottom and flicking her hair. I stayed on the beach and swimming in the sea  with Erin and Roger for about as long as our unaclimatised bodies could tolerate. In the restaurant by the hotel it was clear over dinner that we were all in good spirits and properly rested for the return leg. 

DAY 9: Back to Grasse and then riding the Route Napoleon. A nice wide road with a good dry surface, we rode briskly North through the mountains catching the occasional quick glance of the Azure coastline we had left behind. Turning off onto the lanes which lead to the Grand Canyon of Verdon did not cause much slowing of pace and we were soon riding the roads engineeered along the heights of the various deep canyons. I know all the best places to stop and have a proper look around. So unlike most of the other bikers who were wobbling around the twisting roads, we did not risk life and limb by sightseeing from the saddle. We stopped for lunch on the shores of the Lac de St Croix where my travel companions were particularly impressed with the bright blue of the water. After negotiating the Northern heights we rejoined the Route Napoleon. Before arrival at the hotel, we made just one more significant stop, under the Citadel fort which is opposite the breathtaking Rocher de Baume rock face at Sisteron. Clear blue skies without heat haze ensured the best views on the most scenic days ride of the tour.    

DAY 10: Leaving Gap we were soon climbing and riding twisting roads into the mountains. This time we rode on roads at the bottom of steep sided canyons from which huge waterfalls crashed down to within a few yards of us. We went to Die and after a bit of the customary foolery by the town roadsign we climbed high into the mountains towards the Combe Laval which is a road carved from the rock high on a cliff over a deep gorge. Making good progress through the uphill bends we chuckled at graffiti which proclaimed the nearest hospital was 90km away. On every climb we found there was a marked drop in temperature as we got higher, but we soon warmed up riding the descents. Near a blanked out roadsign for the Combe Laval, I stopped to speak with a local who informed that it was only the second day of closure, but the road was broken and it would be some time before it reopened. This was great news for Erin who has a long time fear of heights which she said was getting progessively worse as we rode through the mountains. Roger said he didn't mind and I have seen it and done it before, so no real disappointment. By the end of the day we had cleared the mountains and were settling into a hotel with an adjoining restaurant at Bourg-en-Bresse. The sun was shining and the faces were smiling.   

DAY 11: Until lunch the roads were predominently straight country lanes. We stopped at the Relais (coaching inn) in Mesvres which is run by biking friends of the M3C custom bike club who hold a large annual rally in this village. With most of the French people now lunching at Le McDonalds, it is rare to find a more traditional lunch stop which has enough custom to justify serving fresh local produce. They have a lot of regular customers here which speaks volumes about how good it is. It was lucky that we got settled before the midday rush and we tucked into the 11 euro for 3 courses, plus coffee plat du jour menu for the typical two hour lunch break. In the Bourgogne region, Boeuf Bourguignon seemed very appropriate. After lunch we visited the Temple Des Mille Bouddhas which is a working Buddhist temple in the grounds of a Chateau. Exiting onto some fine fast twisties we passed and waved to our dinner hosts who had since shut up shop for a cooling blast on their custom bikes. After a relatively shorter than average and more relaxed day we stopped at the city of Nevers. With the bikes parked in the hotel compound and still full from lunch, we walked the short distance to a light dinner and then to a bar for a few beers. 

DAY 12: After riding along the banks of the beautiful Loire river and associated canals, our first stop was at the magnificent Belle Epoque aqueduct which carries the Pont Canal over the river Loire. A splendid work in iron from the workshops of Gustav Eiffel (of the tower fame). Roger and Erin suggest that we skip a visit to Versailles. They have been there before and think the stop start traffic crossing the town would be tedious. I agreed to let the SatNav plot the fastest route to the Chateau of Chantilly where they wanted to spend more time on a longer visit. I don't think they would have asked or I would have agreed to the itinerary change had we realised our newly plotted route included the notorious congested Paris ring road (Periphique). Not pleasant, but we survived intact and I can blame the SatNav which is good in some respects but frustrating in others. I do not and will not ever plan a tour using SatNav plotted routes. The visit to the Royal Stables and Chateau of Chantilly lived up to the high expectations for Erin and Roger, while I lounged in the shade looking after the bikes and kit. From the hotel in Compiegne we went to a bar and then a restaurant where we all over indulged. We took a few cans of beer back to the hotel and sat outside sipping them as the sun went down. In the morning it is a mainly motorway 140 mile ride to Calais and the boat to Dover.